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kestrel.ca
Underboss
1684 Posts
    
 | | 08/08/2005 9:03 PM |
| | recovered topic 7113 | |
Completed Trades/Transactions: 94 || Bad Trades: 3 (Chaotic Good x2, MackeyV) | |
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kestrel.ca
Underboss
1684 Posts
| | 08/08/2005 9:03 PM |
| My gaming table is still in my head, so I can't post any pictures yet. [)]
One thing I would like to add to a table if I ever create one, is a raised table topper, allowing easier access to skirmish/combat. (My dream table is primarily for RPG use.) Assuming a table of about 4 1/2' x 8', I'd consider creating a raised platform about 3' x 6', about 8" high. This platform would be supported a base inset about 6" from the edge of the platform, resulting in an overhang. Ideally, this would allow all the players good access to the combat area (probably covered with a vinyl/laminated/plexiglass grid), yet still provide them with enough area for their books/papers/pizza, etc. | |
Completed Trades/Transactions: 94 || Bad Trades: 3 (Chaotic Good x2, MackeyV) | |
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YRM_DM
Sergeant
905 Posts
| | 08/12/2005 11:32 AM |
| Pictures of my gaming table can be seen here.
http://www.voidgamers.com/channel/HirstArts/b.100.html?author_name=YRM | |
Completed good trades with Demagogue, PigSnot, DoB, and Alepulp.
I know you can hear MY thoughts... Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow... | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 08/12/2005 2:31 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by YRM_DM
Pictures of my gaming table can be seen here.
http://www.voidgamers.com/channel/HirstArts/b.100.html?author_name=YRM
You the one who made that!! I saw them months ago and wow, that is a great job. | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
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YRM_DM
Sergeant
905 Posts
| | 08/12/2005 3:48 PM |
| Thanks. I have a few other entries coming up in the next HADD, which will go public on August 16th. I'll post links when it does.
Thanks again. | |
Completed good trades with Demagogue, PigSnot, DoB, and Alepulp.
I know you can hear MY thoughts... Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow... | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 08/12/2005 4:21 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by YRM_DM
Thanks. I have a few other entries coming up in the next HADD, which will go public on August 16th. I'll post links when it does.
Thanks again.
do you happen to sell off any of your models? | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
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aonaran
Skirmisher
48 Posts
| | 08/12/2005 4:23 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by YRM_DM
Pictures of my gaming table can be seen here.
http://www.voidgamers.com/channel/HirstArts/b.100.html?author_name=YRM
I love your work. That was one of the sets that inspired me to get into the Hirst Arts stuff a few months back.
Thanks for sharing. | |
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Deathknell 50/60 - Angelfire 36/60 - Underdark 8/60 - Wardrums 31/60 | |
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griffrat
Commander
3506 Posts
| | 08/12/2005 4:33 PM |
| | Nice work!! [)] I am glad to see another HA addict... | |
Ambassador of FUN!!! | |
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YRM_DM
Sergeant
905 Posts
| | 08/12/2005 8:20 PM |
| Thanks guys.
SpikeGif
I don't really sell my models because it would be tough to get back for them what I put into them in time and materials.
Suppose I spent a total of 30-40 hours on a building in my town. Plaster is almost $1 a pound because I use pretty good stuff. Then, there are paints, sealing the piece, etc.
I can make $50-$75 an hour doing freelance Graphic Design work.
Suppose I would only charge $20 an hour, which is less than I make at my job, it'd be about $750 for a medium building when you factor in material costs and some amount for the costs of the molds. And even if I could get someone to pay that, I'd be making half what I make doing freelance.
For most people, that kind of money is completely out of the question to spend on a hobby and they'd wonder, why on earth would I spend that for one building? Is my stuff even good enough?
There's an Italian company that sells wonderful handcrafted buildings and ruins for hundreds to thousands of dollars each.
I have considered making small pieces, like Dice Rollers or Small Cottages or small towers and sell them or trade them.
The other problem is that Bruce has an arrangement where, if you would make more than $1,000 a year selling models made via his molds, that you'd have to come to some kind of agreement with him.
Honestly, that part isn't really a problem because he's a great guy and I've happily handed out his fliers at conventions and sung the praises of his products (so cutting a deal, if such were possible, would not be offensive to me).
Anyway, the most likely way you could get a custom building from me, (if you were still interested after all that) without spending a ton would be a trade of a fair amount of miniatures that I need in return for something that would only take me 10-15 hours to complete... like a custom dice roller, tower, house, modular fortress wall, dungeon room, etc. | |
Completed good trades with Demagogue, PigSnot, DoB, and Alepulp.
I know you can hear MY thoughts... Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow, Meow... | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 08/13/2005 1:03 AM |
| quote:
Originally posted by YRM_DM
I don't really sell my models because it would be tough to get back for them what I put into them in time and materials.
I fully understand. I sure do not have the funds and the gamming time to justify the cost. | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
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DARKELF
Sneak
96 Posts
| | 08/14/2005 2:48 PM |
| | i will post here pics of my table as soon as it is done me and my friends r working on it its going to be for skrimishes between us all i kno theres to many of us to play all at once but we r just going to change the rules a little bit at least thats wat it feals like to me. were all going to play thats 10 of us were going to do a siege thing in which i will control the City in the middle of r 4*4 table i named the city Fareth and they will all have 3000 piont warbands attacking me i will have 2000 piont warbands there can be no dragons though we made that rule already also no wizards r sorceers they cant have clerics but i can since i have a weaker force the castle is going to be on a large hill and pass the castle will be two doulble layer hills with a trebuchat on the top of both and pass them is a forset with enough space to put minis in betwwen there will be a secondary forset north of the castle also i will inform u when we are done and post pics and blueprints and inform u on battle info | |
David Castro | |
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kestrel.ca
Underboss
1684 Posts
| | 08/14/2005 5:49 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by DARKELF
i will post here pics of my table as soon as it is done me and my friends r working on it its going to be for skrimishes between us all i kno theres to many of us to play all at once but we r just going to change the rules a little bit at least thats wat it feals like to me. were all going to play thats 10 of us were going to do a siege thing in which i will control the City in the middle of r 4*4 table i named the city Fareth and they will all have 3000 piont warbands attacking me i will have 2000 piont warbands there can be no dragons though we made that rule already also no wizards r sorceers they cant have clerics but i can since i have a weaker force the castle is going to be on a large hill and pass the castle will be two doulble layer hills with a trebuchat on the top of both and pass them is a forset with enough space to put minis in betwwen there will be a secondary forset north of the castle also i will inform u when we are done and post pics and blueprints and inform u on battle info
Woah, take a breath, dude! Punctuation can be your friend. [)] | |
Completed Trades/Transactions: 94 || Bad Trades: 3 (Chaotic Good x2, MackeyV) | |
| Knight of Argenis
Corim Danex
Warlord
6802 Posts
West Valley City, Utah
| | 08/14/2005 7:01 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by kestrel.ca
quote:
Originally posted by DARKELF
i will post here pics of my table as soon as it is done me and my friends r working on it its going to be for skrimishes between us all i kno theres to many of us to play all at once but we r just going to change the rules a little bit at least thats wat it feals like to me. were all going to play thats 10 of us were going to do a siege thing in which i will control the City in the middle of r 4*4 table i named the city Fareth and they will all have 3000 piont warbands attacking me i will have 2000 piont warbands there can be no dragons though we made that rule already also no wizards r sorceers they cant have clerics but i can since i have a weaker force the castle is going to be on a large hill and pass the castle will be two doulble layer hills with a trebuchat on the top of both and pass them is a forset with enough space to put minis in betwwen there will be a secondary forset north of the castle also i will inform u when we are done and post pics and blueprints and inform u on battle info
Woah, take a breath, dude! Punctuation can be your friend. [)]
Yes, it was rather exhausting and intensive reading that. What does "r" mean anyway? What about "i"? | |
"Look to God and live." Alma 37:47
Vindicated Champ of Hippogriff (Arcadian Hippogriff) and Uncommon Horse | |
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DARKELF
Sneak
96 Posts
| | 08/14/2005 7:58 PM |
| | R means are and i means I. srry i dont like to stop to put periods r other marks i try to type as less than possible | |
David Castro | |
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japakar
Sneak
97 Posts
| | 08/14/2005 11:55 PM |
| as less as possible?
:)
Bridge Town Hobbies on sandy in portland oregon, bthobbies.com has a gaming table just like the one the other guy made here on the forums, even has a mat on it thats stuck to it thats 1.5 inch squares or so. Just mentioning incase anyone lives near and wanted to check it out or whatever :)
I am working on building mine its just half a table top so far=/ | |
H/W List - Trade References
Completed Trades: 9 - Total Minis: 267
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Jeb McDonald
Sergeant
402 Posts
Central New Jersey
| | 08/15/2005 10:14 AM |
| | My gaming table is nothing quite so fancy, but it works well for my group and me. I bought two 30" x 72" tables at SAM's Club and have them side by side for a surface of 60" x 72". On top of that is our battlemat. I then had a 60" x 72" sheet of plexiglass (1/4" thick) made which lies on top of the table. We use wet erase pens on the plexiglass, we can still see the battlemat squares, and everyone has a smooth writing surface on which to work. The entire set up cost under $200. | |
The man who thinks he can, and the man who thinks he can't are both right. Which one are you? | |
| Knight of Argenis
Corim Danex
Warlord
6802 Posts
West Valley City, Utah
| | 08/15/2005 10:50 AM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Jeb McDonald
My gaming table is nothing quite so fancy, but it works well for my group and me. I bought two 30" x 72" tables at SAM's Club and have them side by side for a surface of 60" x 72". On top of that is our battlemat. I then had a 60" x 72" sheet of plexiglass (1/4" thick) made which lies on top of the table. We use wet erase pens on the plexiglass, we can still see the battlemat squares, and everyone has a smooth writing surface on which to work. The entire set up cost under $200.
How does the plexiglass hold up? Does it get scratches in it? Do you put drinks, food on the table? I was thinking of getting 1/8 inch thick plexiglass. What is your opinion on 1/4 inch vs. 1/8 inch plexiglass?
Also, what is the battlemat under the glass you are using? Homemade or purchased? If homemade, what did you make it out of and what were the lines drawn with?
Sorry to overload on questions. I am designing a table and am still making decisions. | |
"Look to God and live." Alma 37:47
Vindicated Champ of Hippogriff (Arcadian Hippogriff) and Uncommon Horse | |
|
Jeb McDonald
Sergeant
402 Posts
Central New Jersey
| | 08/16/2005 9:05 AM |
| | I've had this setup for about 18 months now. The plexiglass is holding up quite well. As for putting drinks on it, we normally put canned drinks in "drink cozies" (there has GOT to be a better word for those!) so there is no condensation build-up. The plexiglass is over a store bought battle mat. There is enough room at the edges of the table for players to have their dice and character record sheet out without covering up a significant portion of the mat. As for the thickness of the plexiglass, I went with 1/4" because I wanted to have something substantial (read: firm). 1/8" may be perfectly fine, however. | |
The man who thinks he can, and the man who thinks he can't are both right. Which one are you? | |
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Cog
Skirmisher
13 Posts
| | 08/16/2005 12:56 PM |
| | I use a sheet of 1/8'' plexi on my "gaming table" and it works great and its less money. | |
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cyderakk
Warrior
313 Posts
| | 08/27/2005 4:30 PM |
| spikegif.........I got a dude who would do it for waaay cheaper than that and he's a cometition grade painter so you can request what grade of paint job you want......tabletop acceptable.......mid grade.....or show peice.....
he's reasonably priced
heres the link......he's lives in wisconsin.....i'm sure he'd ship
http://overlordminiaturepainting.maddsites.com/main.htm
just give him lay out and he'd put it together.
he's looking for sonthing to do right now anyways
| |
Later | |
|
FeranEldritchKnight
Sergeant
385 Posts
Kansas City, MO USA
| | 08/31/2005 5:42 PM |
| I'm sure everyone here has seen www.agyris.net's Ultimate Game Table. I'm designing my own table based loosely on theirs. I like the player station vs DM station idea, and the raised game surface.
I'm planning my table surface to be 4'x6' (for mass battles) with 7 player stations. Each station will measure 15" square and 10" high. Using 1" MDF, this places 3 Players across the 4' end, and 3 players deep from the corners and gives 2'x4' for DM space (ie laptop, minis, notes). This also leaves 16"x31" hollow in the center of the gamer areas. I plan to utilize a few of the simple Agyris features, like a drink holder, but will drop many others that seem overly complicated, like the message system.
Using a kitchen table as reference, I plan the station tops to be 28" off the ground, then another 10" to the actual gaming top. Kinko's will print a 3'x4' grid of 1" squares fairly cheap. Two of these, side by side, will cover the top. Cover that with cheap 3'x4' plexiglass or polycarbonate (same thing?) from Home Depot.
My only concern is that I bought a 3'x4' piece a year or so ago and certain dry-erase marker brands and/or colors don't wipe off well. Any advice or experience anyone can share on this? | |
Completed trades: Gausse, Mazra, Pagansexy, Galerians, Lord_Raven, Drakkengi, Temujinn x2, Random Sasquatch, elf_ranger, Azuretide, Hung4treason, Griffrat (face2face), Nasamonkey
Carpe Forum! | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 08/31/2005 7:24 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by FeranEldritchKnight
[font=Comic Sans MS]I'm sure everyone here has seen www.agyris.net's Ultimate Game Table.
Do you know when they will have some plans drawn up?
I am thinking of drawing my own up (CAD and ARCH back ground) but lacking the extra time to do so, posting on maxminis is funner. [:)] | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
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FeranEldritchKnight
Sergeant
385 Posts
Kansas City, MO USA
| | 09/01/2005 12:15 AM |
| quote:
Originally posted by spikegif
Do you know when they will have some plans drawn up?
Probably the day after never. If you look at the post dates on their forum, they've been promising blueprints since '01 or '02.
Honestly, most of their stuff shouldn't be too difficult to re-create, if you want to. I don't see much value in the message system myself. More trouble than it's worth. I'd much rather design some simple IM-type system. I know a bunch of the techies here were discussing it in a thread a while back. That and the projector thing are on my dream table. | |
Completed trades: Gausse, Mazra, Pagansexy, Galerians, Lord_Raven, Drakkengi, Temujinn x2, Random Sasquatch, elf_ranger, Azuretide, Hung4treason, Griffrat (face2face), Nasamonkey
Carpe Forum! | |
| 
Zenako
Commander
3468 Posts
| | 09/02/2005 12:26 PM |
| | Amazing table with a few good ideas that I might be cribbing in the next few months as my table takes shape.... | |
Built the addition for this addiction, now on to the "gaming table" project....
http://www.maxminis.com/hw_list.asp?user=Zenako last updated 29 May 2006
Set Status: in a nutshell = all of all
In Process trades 0), (Sig last updated 05/29/06) 300 plus Completed Trades -
If I seem scarce at times...blame DDO - Sarlona | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 09/02/2005 1:19 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Zenako
Amazing table with a few good ideas that I might be cribbing in the next few months as my table takes shape....
I look forward to see what you come up with. I hope it does not take as long as your house though. [:)] | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
|
Zenako
Commander
3468 Posts
| | 09/02/2005 10:55 PM |
| Me too, got the final inspection done this week and sent off the final payment to the contractor (ouch).
| |
Built the addition for this addiction, now on to the "gaming table" project....
http://www.maxminis.com/hw_list.asp?user=Zenako last updated 29 May 2006
Set Status: in a nutshell = all of all
In Process trades0), (Sig last updated 05/29/06) 300 plus Completed Trades -
If I seem scarce at times...blame DDO - Sarlona | |
| Knight of Argenis
Corim Danex
Warlord
6802 Posts
West Valley City, Utah
| | 09/07/2005 8:44 PM |
| | With my Dragonlance DM's help, we started making my gaming table last night. We may be able to make more progress tonight. I think I have decided not to use plexiglass, but a clear table cloth instead. I will have the vinyl mat (8' by 4') on top of the table with the 1" grid made with silver sharpies. The table is 8'1" by 4'1". The clear table cloth (plastic) will go right over the entire table. Drakkengi showed me his plastic cloth, and I was impressed by how effective it is. As I will be using silver sharpies for the vinyl mat, I will be able to use black wet erase markers on the clear plastic to draw the dungeon rooms. | |
"Look to God and live." Alma 37:47
Vindicated Champ of Hippogriff (Arcadian Hippogriff) and Uncommon Horse | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 09/07/2005 9:49 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Corim Danex
With my Dragonlance DM's help, we started making my gaming table last night. We may be able to make more progress tonight. I think I have decided not to use plexiglass, but a clear table cloth instead. I will have the vinyl mat (8' by 4') on top of the table with the 1" grid made with silver sharpies. The table is 8'1" by 4'1". The clear table cloth (plastic) will go right over the entire table. Drakkengi showed me his plastic cloth, and I was impressed by how effective it is. As I will be using silver sharpies for the vinyl mat, I will be able to use black wet erase markers on the clear plastic to draw the dungeon rooms.
What!!!!!!!!!
you cannot be doing that now. Does he not get off at 9pm? [:D] | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
| Knight of Argenis
Corim Danex
Warlord
6802 Posts
West Valley City, Utah
| | 09/07/2005 9:56 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by spikegif
What!!!!!!!!!
you cannot be doing that now. Does he not get off at 9pm? [:D]
LOL...he only works four days a week. Yesterday was one of his days off. He thought we could finish it yesterday. His drill ran out of "juice" and needed overnight charging. It was his idea to come back tonight, I think. Anyway, his wife and daughter are coming over after he gets off work to visit my wife while we try to finish the table tonight. We're serving enchiladas. [:)] | |
"Look to God and live." Alma 37:47
Vindicated Champ of Hippogriff (Arcadian Hippogriff) and Uncommon Horse | |
| Knight of Argenis
Corim Danex
Warlord
6802 Posts
West Valley City, Utah
| | 09/08/2005 2:11 AM |
| | The table is built. Now I need to make the mat and get the clear plastic material. | |
"Look to God and live." Alma 37:47
Vindicated Champ of Hippogriff (Arcadian Hippogriff) and Uncommon Horse | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 09/08/2005 11:32 AM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Corim Danex
The table is built. Now I need to make the mat and get the clear plastic material.
when do *we* get to play on it? | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
| Knight of Argenis
Corim Danex
Warlord
6802 Posts
West Valley City, Utah
| | 09/08/2005 6:57 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by spikegif
quote:
Originally posted by Corim Danex
The table is built. Now I need to make the mat and get the clear plastic material.
when do *we* get to play on it?
Anytime. I don't have the vinyl huge mat done. But the table is functional. Which people are hiding between those two asterisks and with the word "we"? | |
"Look to God and live." Alma 37:47
Vindicated Champ of Hippogriff (Arcadian Hippogriff) and Uncommon Horse | |
| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 09/08/2005 10:38 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Corim Danex
Which people are hiding between those two asterisks and with the word "we"?
any players who are invited. | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
|
Kelemvor
Warrior
223 Posts
| | 09/08/2005 11:32 PM |
| I checked out the ultimate game table at www.agyris.net with the message ball system.
A few comments to anyone before you think about building a similar beastly table.
It is an interesting table, and I think the message ball system is cool but the basic problem is the gaming surface is too high. So it looks to me that most of the player's time would be spent standing up to see what was really going on. And the dice rolling areas, while handy, are not in view of the GM.
The overall layout is almost the opposite of what I am designing.
I am designing a "sunken" play area and a higher player and DM sitting area, where the players and GM are all looking down into the action. The GM area will be built a bit higher than the players, and have a built in blind barrier sort of like a wide podium. No standing would be required to get a look at everything and you can reach into the play area easily. Dice rolls will be made in an area in front of each player where everyone can see. Casual cheating on dice rolls, or being tempted to, won't be a concern.
The player areas will still be divided, and have storage etc, but it won't be so ultimately anti-social.
I'll try and put up a picture of the design I am working on.
I would just hate for someone to emulate that super heavy table and end up with something "ultimately" uncomfortable for everyone.
Cheers!
Kelemvor | |
Champion of ... Solamnic Knight on Silver Dragon
Completed Maxminis Trades = nystul69(1), ihawk(1), gausse(2), smilinirish(1), Ben Webster(1), thom(1), Gunthar(1), Halofurry(1), Anthraxus(1), Dr.Cornelius(1), me_is_fred(1), ksarchet(1), tirwin(1), Sirohk(1)
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| Master Peon
spikegif
Warlord
5699 Posts
| | 09/09/2005 11:06 AM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Kelemvor
The overall layout is almost the opposite of what I am designing. I am designing a "sunken" play area and a higher player and DM sitting area, where the players and GM are all looking down into the action. The GM area will be built a bit higher than the players, and have a built in blind barrier sort of like a wide podium. No standing would be required to get a look at everything and you can reach into the play area easily.
Cheers!
Kelemvor
Plese do post a picture, or even a CAD file if possible. | |
First peon to make it to "Knight Warlord"
Completed Trades -148- | |
|
kestrel.ca
Underboss
1684 Posts
| | 09/09/2005 6:33 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Kelemvor
I checked out the ultimate game table at www.agyris.net with the message ball system.
A few comments to anyone before you think about building a similar beastly table.
It is an interesting table, and I think the message ball system is cool but the basic problem is the gaming surface is too high. So it looks to me that most of the player's time would be spent standing up to see what was really going on. And the dice rolling areas, while handy, are not in view of the GM.
The overall layout is almost the opposite of what I am designing.
I am designing a "sunken" play area and a higher player and DM sitting area, where the players and GM are all looking down into the action. The GM area will be built a bit higher than the players, and have a built in blind barrier sort of like a wide podium. No standing would be required to get a look at everything and you can reach into the play area easily. Dice rolls will be made in an area in front of each player where everyone can see. Casual cheating on dice rolls, or being tempted to, won't be a concern.
The player areas will still be divided, and have storage etc, but it won't be so ultimately anti-social.
I'll try and put up a picture of the design I am working on.
I would just hate for someone to emulate that super heavy table and end up with something "ultimately" uncomfortable for everyone.
Cheers!
Kelemvor
I agree that the "ultimate" game table is a beast -- way too heavy, and inflexible. For me, the primary benefit to having a slightly raised "minis" surface is because I have a reasonably tough time seeing directly behind my screened area. A slightly raised platform (6-8 inches) would alleviate most of this problem, while still (I hope) not being so high as to require standing frequently.
As for dice cheating -- that's why most of my games are pretty informal. We're more there for fun, than for competition.
In your "dropped area" what are you planning to do to prevent things from falling into the lower area? I can see dice easily taking out an orc or two if you're not careful! | |
Completed Trades/Transactions: 94 || Bad Trades: 3 (Chaotic Good x2, MackeyV) | |
|
Kelemvor
Warrior
223 Posts
| | 09/09/2005 10:27 PM |
| Well, each player will have a dice pit of sorts in front of them.
I'm still sketching in pencil, so will be a bit before I have some simple plans to look at. I actually have 2 designs I can't decide on. An octagon table or a sqaure. Maybe I'll design both and then decide which to build. | |
Champion of ... Solamnic Knight on Silver Dragon
Completed Maxminis Trades = nystul69(1), ihawk(1), gausse(2), smilinirish(1), Ben Webster(1), thom(1), Gunthar(1), Halofurry(1), Anthraxus(1), Dr.Cornelius(1), me_is_fred(1), ksarchet(1), tirwin(1), Sirohk(1)
| |
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FeranEldritchKnight
Sergeant
385 Posts
Kansas City, MO USA
| | 09/09/2005 10:31 PM |
| Kelemvor- (may I call you Kel, or is it Lord of the Dead?)
I think you're mis-judging how high the top is. Even if it is too high, drop the top a bit. The sunken surface sounds interesting though-- very much like the players are the gods looking down upon the world-- very cool feel to it. How deep below "table-top" do you plan on putting it? It could be a bit of an issue manipulating pieces if too it's deep.
Do you normally have issues with players being dishonest about die rolls? Sounds like the old "cheaters only cheat themselves" addage applies. All my players are honest-- although I must admit they've never had the opportunity to cheat.
As for the weight of the beast, how often do you plan on moving it? Does weight really matter unless you move?
Here's hoping we can mutually design the perfect table! | |
Completed trades: Gausse, Mazra, Pagansexy, Galerians, Lord_Raven, Drakkengi, Temujinn x2, Random Sasquatch, elf_ranger, Azuretide, Hung4treason, Griffrat (face2face), Nasamonkey
Carpe Forum! | |
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Kelemvor
Warrior
223 Posts
| | 09/10/2005 2:33 AM |
| Kel is fine thanks. [:)]
I certainly don't want to tell anyone how to build their table, it's mostly personal preferance after all.
But I would "suggest" you consider all aspects before you start to build something big that is kind of a permanent fixture.
I guess when I envisioned a play session at that table with me as a player, I sort of saw myself standing alot to see what was going on. And it wouldn't be very good for playing a board game, playing poker, or for a simple D&D minis skirmish. Shorter and/or younger players might have even more trouble seeing. You may be right, it may look higher than it actually is in those pictures, but i still don't think it is optimal, for multiple uses.
My table isn't complicated, and actually pretty simple. Think of like a large {octagonal or square} poker table with a 2" to 3" sunken play area. Back in the day, we used to play around an old slate pool table, so think of that level of "sunken", perhaps an inch deeper.
Even if you have to lean in alot to move your piece, you won't have to stand or strain just to see everything.
I am considering a removable play area "board" with a plexiglass cover so you could put any kind of background and cover it with the plexiglass, My default will probably be green felt. (makes good grass and outdoors)
The pool table actually was fun to use, but had alot of problems. Problems with the pool table was lack of player space for papers, drinks, dice, writing space, etc, and you couldn't really get your knees under it to sit.
So, the table I am designing will have a nice area for each player to write, a long rectagular dice pit, a good deep drink holder to prevent spills, and some kind of shelf under the player area to slide books, clipboards etc. Dividers between player areas are still in consideration, as to how high, or if I even want them at all. Maybe just some trim between areas, to distinguish player space. I am re-thinking the GM area to have removable blind dividers, for when there is no GM. I can easily make the top removable from the stand, and you could store the top vertically against a wall if you wanted.
I want the table to be multi-useful for D&D Role playing, Minis skirmishes, poker games, board games, or just socialising. The table should be just a natural thing to sit at, even if you don't plan to play a game right away.
The "ultimate" table doesn't look like something you would just naturally sit at, unless you were going to play a very specific type of game.
As far as the cheating on dice rolls... I haven't had problems with it, but back in the day, when I was a player, we had one or 2 guys that sometimes tried to casually cheat on important dice rolls, and everyone kind of tried to ignore it, but eventually it ruined the game feel. I remember one guy rolling behind his little supply box on purpose especially when it was an important save/versus type roll. And the other players just end up feeling weird about it. It just creates an uncomfortable feeling. I would rather have built-in preventive measures against that with a viewable dice box, and take away the temptation completely.
Plus - it's just more fun to actually see your other friends roll that 20 or that 1 instead of just hearing about it.
For GM rolls, sometimes I will roll in full view of the players, but mostly I roll hidden behind the screen. The GM is of course allowed, and has to keep a level of secrecy and suspense after all. [:D]
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Champion of ... Solamnic Knight on Silver Dragon
Completed Maxminis Trades = nystul69(1), ihawk(1), gausse(2), smilinirish(1), Ben Webster(1), thom(1), Gunthar(1), Halofurry(1), Anthraxus(1), Dr.Cornelius(1), me_is_fred(1), ksarchet(1), tirwin(1), Sirohk(1)
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| Knight of Argenis
Corim Danex
Warlord
6802 Posts
West Valley City, Utah
| | 09/10/2005 11:32 AM |
| Kelemvor,
Having just built a table (still working on battle mat to put on it), I would suggest that you pay attention to how thick the table is. What I mean by this is:
If your play area is 3 inches lower than the part of the table near the edge where people can put stuff, and the wood used for the play area is about 3/4 an inch thick, it is likely that you will have the section for people to put their stuff in under the table (books, clipboards, etc.) will go down even further. Make sure as you are designing this space that (1) the space between the bottom of the table and the floor is the right amount for leg room, and (2) the top edge of the table is a reasonable height without being too tall.
Is there going to be one central dice area for all players, or are there going to be 2-3 spread around so people don't have to move to the area to roll their dice?
I would say that an area about 5-6 inches across and about 10 inches long and 3 inches deep would be great for rolling dice in. If you put felt around the entire surface, it will make the rolls more quiet.
I noticed on the ultimate gaming table that the dice areas were shallow and small. It would be too easy for the dice to bounce out, in my opinion. At least with a regular roll that actually allows the dice to roll around a bit before settling on a number. | |
"Look to God and live." Alma 37:47
Vindicated Champ of Hippogriff (Arcadian Hippogriff) and Uncommon Horse | |
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