Fun Guy from Yuggoth
Cthulhufnord
Warlord
11001 Posts
    
Umass Amherst Baby!
 | | 01/23/2006 5:56 PM |
| | Hey I'm inspired to do some converting and painting with some Heroclicx and Mage Knight figures. Does anyone know of any safe Paint strippers one can get in the states, that won't melt the figure. I've already tried doing Oven cleaner overnight and that didn't even scratch it. | |
Pathetic Earthlings. Hurling your bodies out into the void - without the slightest inkling of who or what is out here. If you had known anything about the true nature of the universe - anything at all - you would have hidden from it in terror. | |
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smithmeg
Sergeant
508 Posts
| | 01/23/2006 6:42 PM |
| Cthulnufnord, have a look in the painting section on the Wizards DDM boards. They had this same dicussion last week - and I'm sure someone had something that would work on Mage Knight.
If you are going to paint DDMs, don't bother stripping them - anything that will eat the paint, will also eat the mini unless you are really careful (and lucky). Just prime over the top.
I hope this is helpful. | | | |
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Lead Moderator
LCS
Underboss
1899 Posts
| | 01/23/2006 7:02 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by smithmeg
f you are going to paint DDMs, don't bother stripping them - anything that will eat the paint, will also eat the mini unless you are really careful (and lucky).
I thought Leather Deglazer was supposed to take the paint off of DDM without damaging the plastic?
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smithmeg
Sergeant
508 Posts
| | 01/23/2006 7:22 PM |
| Yes, well that's what I was told too.
I tried it (maybe I got the wrong brand), and it loosened the paint on the surfaces, and left it in all the indents. (Which means that you end up with less detail that just painting over the paint would have had - cause the raised surfaces are lower, but the indents are still the same height - and the edges of the paint were very uneven).
So, for the next mini, I left it in the deglazer longer - by the time the paint in the indents was loosening, there were bits of plastic peeling off the base, and when I had to get a toothbrush to scrub the last bits of paint off, it also took strips of plastic off the surface.
But, maybe the only brand I could get was not the right one, or I left it in for the wrong amount of time, or the temperature was wrong ... try it yourself - just make sure that you only use commons until you've perfected the technique.
The only time I'd bother trying to strip a DDM is when it's one I've already painted once, and I want to do it again. But, the paint I use comes off a lot easier than the DDM paint.
Good Luck if you try. | | | |
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Fun Guy from Yuggoth
Cthulhufnord
Warlord
11001 Posts
Umass Amherst Baby!
| | 01/24/2006 1:10 AM |
| | I'm trying some extra strength oven cleaner right now. Next on my list will be some break fluid which I understand does not hurt the plastic mini. | |
Pathetic Earthlings. Hurling your bodies out into the void - without the slightest inkling of who or what is out here. If you had known anything about the true nature of the universe - anything at all - you would have hidden from it in terror. | |
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Runelord151
Underboss
1203 Posts
| | 01/24/2006 1:57 AM |
| My advice is don't strip the mini. Just clean it and prime it.
I always cringe when people start talking about break fluid...[xx(] | | | |
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griffrat
Commander
3506 Posts
| | 01/24/2006 6:05 AM |
| | A couple of weeks ago I was hanging out at the FLGS here in K.C. The shop had gotten in a shipment, go figure! Any how, there was a stripper called "Chameleon" (like the lizard, I probably spelled the word wrong hence the lizard reference). Well, this stuff is designed for stripping paint from plastic figures. Well, plastic figures made after 1955. Don't ask me about the 1955 reference it was on the bottle. I thought that I would throw that out there..... | |
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Wrackspawn
ChristopherGroves
Warlord
6093 Posts
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Fun Guy from Yuggoth
Cthulhufnord
Warlord
11001 Posts
Umass Amherst Baby!
| | 01/24/2006 12:31 PM |
| | I've heard Pine Sol melts most plastic figures myself. But given these are Heroclix I'll give that a try too. Ordinaraly I would prime/paint right over them but the paint is realy thick on them. | |
Pathetic Earthlings. Hurling your bodies out into the void - without the slightest inkling of who or what is out here. If you had known anything about the true nature of the universe - anything at all - you would have hidden from it in terror. | |
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Fun Guy from Yuggoth
Cthulhufnord
Warlord
11001 Posts
Umass Amherst Baby!
| | 01/24/2006 7:42 PM |
| | Allright the extra strength oven cleaner did nothing... no it's onto the Pine Sol and Break Fluid. [xx(] | |
Pathetic Earthlings. Hurling your bodies out into the void - without the slightest inkling of who or what is out here. If you had known anything about the true nature of the universe - anything at all - you would have hidden from it in terror. | |
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Gristlemane
Sergeant
623 Posts
| | 01/25/2006 3:34 AM |
| | Adds some break fluid to his makeup kit . . . | |
It's deja vu all over again. | |
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Fun Guy from Yuggoth
Cthulhufnord
Warlord
11001 Posts
Umass Amherst Baby!
| | 01/25/2006 8:52 AM |
| | Has anyone tried using acetone aka nailpolish remover? There's a couple Heroclix re-paints on Coolmini, where the painter used the stuff. Looks like I'll be doing some experimenting today. [:p] | |
Pathetic Earthlings. Hurling your bodies out into the void - without the slightest inkling of who or what is out here. If you had known anything about the true nature of the universe - anything at all - you would have hidden from it in terror. | |
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elder_basilisk
Sergeant
410 Posts
| | 01/25/2006 12:38 PM |
| Break fluid mmmm. Do you prefer coffee or tea?
quote:
Originally posted by Gristlemane
Adds some break fluid to his makeup kit . . .
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*censored*
glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 01/25/2006 1:33 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Cthulhufnord
Has anyone tried using acetone aka nailpolish remover? There's a couple Heroclix re-paints on Coolmini, where the painter used the stuff. Looks like I'll be doing some experimenting today. [:p]
Haven't use naile polish remover...all I know that thing is great for removing those bastard violation parking stickers they stamp all over your window in private parkings. Those you usually tend to use a blade to get rid and hope to gawd you don't scratch the glass....cutex works wonders for that and it is cheap...I carry a bottle in my trunk...since i tend to get those once in a while [:p] | |
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*censored*
glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 01/25/2006 1:36 PM |
| I am going to add a paragraph from a new faq guide about painting minis I found...really good to...this is their take on removing paint
6. How do I strip paint?
There are several substances which will work, outlined below. Other
than the top two (which are the author's personal default choices),
they're in no particular order.
a) Pine Sol for a 24-hour soak then brush off remaining paint with
a soft toothbrush. Works great on metal. Brian Lojeck
ran extensive tests on Citadel plastic
genestealers and Pine Sol for paint removal. Here are his
results:
"I soaked the plastic genestealer in about 50-50 Pine Sol/water
solution for 7-8 hours (a nights sleep). The plastic didn't seem
softer, the detail didn't seem any worse, and the paint came off
pretty well (as it always does with Pine Sol. it was hard getting
the paint out of the cracks (I soaked in acetone to do that)."
Then he soaked some unpainted Citadel plastic figures in another
50-50 Pine Sol/water solution:
"The figure survived whole, without softening or loss of detail.
The solution turned milky white about 30 minutes after the
experiment started, but had cleared back to golden by morning."
does same when I'm cleaning the toilet.> Brian left the figures
soaking another 48 hours and they didn't mar under the toothbrush
bristles, but he was able to stick his fingernail into the plastic
about 1/16". It looks like the 50-50 mix is the key. Certain
other pine-oil cleaners of less strength than Pine Sol are on the
market. Anyone who tests these on plastic figures is encouraged
to send the author your results for inclusion here.
b) Chameleon model paint stipper from Custom Hobbyist, Inc. found in
model railroad shops. Sort of expensive, but _reusable_, water
soluable, and really fast.
c) Floquil/Polly S Dio-Sol. Also purportedly dissolves glue.
Won't harm your plastic as much as Pine Sol, but reportedly loses
detail due to the amount of scrubbing necessary for the recesses.
d) Brake fluid. Won't melt your plastic, but might melt your hands...
2-3 hour soak _maximum_, usually works faster.
e) Dettol, the pharmaceutical cleaner. Works much like Pine Sol, but
I have no information on its potential to melt plastic. Though it
didn't melt the base on the test figure, bases probably aren't
polystyrene. It did remove glue, though. (Thanks to Steve Gill
for this bit.)
f) "The Sainsbury's home brand pine disinfectant (UK).
It actually gives pine oil as one of it's ingredients. In testing
it works very well and costs roughly 99p per 750ml bottle." (More
thanks to Steve Gill who found this product and tested it.)
g) Acetone nail polish remover. Smells, peels skin, melts plastic,
takes paint off metal like a champ.
h) Isopropyl alcohol, the stronger the better. Lab grade, if you
can get it. This seems to be the safest product for use on plastic
miniatures, and also the most universally available. "It takes
off acrylic paints in almost no time, but reportedly doesn't do as
good a job in crevices as Pine Sol does. As for oil-based
paints... "after several days of soaking, renewing renewing the
solution, scrubbing... the figurine I tested has still a good
portion of its paint on, mainly on the zones that I cannot access
with a toothbrush." - Magali Mathieu
i Easy-Off oven cleaner. And wear gloves. It reportedly will not
harm metal or plastic minis. Remember to use GOOD ventilation.
(Thanks to Richard Kurtin for this information.)
j) "Bix Paint Stripper. Buy the sprayable, rather than the jelly
mix. It smells bad, is volatile, and will go after your skin if
you forget your gloves. It will remove enamel paint with minimal
scrubbing, and does a pretty good job on acrylic. It _WILL_ eat
plastic, so don't even think about putting your Genestealers (tm)
in it. Also, you'll probably find yourself replacing your
toothbrush more often." - Pete Siekierski
k) "Methylene Chloride. One of the components of Bix Paint Stripper,
MC is rarely available in its purest form (I've no idea where my
dad got his can, and neither does he!). It is extremely volatile.
Do not light up near a can of methylene chloride! It will also do
a number on your skin, making it wrinkled like you've been all day
in the bath. Wear gloves! Also, be sure not to wear metal jewelry.
Because of its high rate of evaporation, MC "chills" metal, and
this can be very uncomfortable if you immerse a ring in it...
On the plus side, pure methylene chloride is even more effective
than Bix, which contains only a small amount. It burns right
through any kind of paint that you'd care to put on a miniature,
and will reduce plastic Genestealers (tm) to shapeless lumps (big
deal, heavy flamers do that too!). It will "chill" lead or pewter
miniatures, so they will feel cold to the touch, but in a room-
temperature environment, this will wear off quickly. Like the Bix
stripper, you'll find yourself replacing your toothbrushes more
often." - Pete Siekierski
(Archiver's note: Proper dental hygene suggest that you replace
your toothbrushes every other month anyway...)
l) Poxy Scum in Australia also offers this
info: "I found that Rexona(tm) Sport pump spray, not the aerosole
works quite well, almost immediately on acrylic Citadel paints.
It is best used for spot cleaning as it works almost instantly to
soften paint and is quite safe on plastic and metal.
As you can see, there are a lot of products that will remove paint. Most
are caustic. The author recommends a non-caustic product. Pine oil
cleaner will remove any type of paint (acrylic, oil-based, Rust-O-Leum,
fingernail polish, etc.) from miniatures with no loss of detail, no
caustic residue, and no hazardous fumes. It's safe for metal miniatures
and will not dissolve the glue holding parts together. Pine-Sol is the
best brand, as it's 19.9% pine oil, but any percentage over 5% pine oil
will strip paint (it just requires a longer soak in the less-powerful
cleaners). It also works on paint that's been on for several years (the
author successfully removed 10-year old Testors from a metal miniature
with a 2-day Pine-Sol soak).
For plastic miniatures, Pine Sol in a 50-50 solution with water, else
isopropyl alcohol is your best bet.
Dettol, a product from the UK, seems to work as the US Pine-Sol does
in preliminary testing. More information will be made available as
testing continues.
Simply place the miniature in a container which will allow full
coverage, pour in enough pine oil cleaner to cover, and let it soak
for 24 hours or more. The longer the soak, the better the stripping
(the author has soaked metal miniatures for over a week with no damage
resulting). If you're doing multiple miniatures, its best to soak
them seperately, if possible. Once the paint starts to dissolve, it
causes a sliminess that can get on the others.
After the soaking, take an old toothbrush (dry) and scrub. A soft
bristled toothbrush is best, however using soft then stiff will get
most everything without special work. The finest details are kept,
the paint comes off easily, and the smell doesn't try to knock you
out. If some paint remains stubborn, another soak will do the trick.
(The tip of a toothpick is also good for crevasse-cleaning as are
standard pipecleaners.) Do wear gloves if you're skin-conscious. The
author doesn't and has never suffered for it, but others report peeling
and irritated skin.
NOTE: Many people have complained about the pine-cleaner soak
darkening the metal of the miniature. The author just finished
cleaning a lead miniature on which the acrylic paint had been for
two years. It soaked for 24 hours and was first scrubbed with a
soft toothbrush then a stiff one until all the paint was removed.
Then the soft brush was washed clean and hand soap (the bar of
Ivory by the sink) was applied to the brush and the miniature was
brushed down vigorously, as one would do teeth. It took about 5
minutes, but the lead shined up as good as the fresh-from-the-package
figures it ended up beside on the shelf. So the `dark metal'
syndrome can be taken care of, if it's important to you and you
care to spend the time.
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Zippy
Underboss
1993 Posts
Whitewater, WI
| | 01/27/2006 5:09 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Cthulhufnord
Has anyone tried using acetone aka nailpolish remover? There's a couple Heroclix re-paints on Coolmini, where the painter used the stuff. Looks like I'll be doing some experimenting today. [:p]
Nail polish remover is not always acetone, beware!
Pyrrilidone based strippers have worked well for me, not sure where you get them "out in the real world". Smelly but effective.
Someone mentioned Methylene Chloride - not particularly flammable but it is carcinogenic (vapor & contact) and a defatting agent (dries your skin horribly). It also melts most plastics in a big hurry. Do NOT use stripping agents with Methylene Chloride on MageKnight or any other plastic mini, unless you trying to convert them into WTF's (a.k.a. Wrackspawn).
Also, to brighten metal if you get the "dark Metal Syndrome", Flitz is a metal polish that works well (toothbrush or steel wool application). | |
There are 10 kinds of people in the world; those who understand binary, and those who don't.
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glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 01/27/2006 5:59 PM |
| | Haw! haven't heard of Flitz in a long time! great tip there Zippy! [:D] | |
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Thokk
Warrior
321 Posts
| | 01/30/2006 10:23 AM |
| | Chutulufnord, when stripping, you can't just leave the mini in the stripper and expect all the paint to come off. Leave it in for a bit (with leather deglaser, which is what I use for DDM as well as Mage Knight and Heroclix, that would be a minute tops) then take a soft or medium toothbrush to it to get the paint out of all the grooves. for really deep stuff, you might need a needle or point of a blade. You will be AMAZED at some of the detail on the Mage Knight stuff once you get the paint off. They GLOP the paint on and compltetely cover the details. One thing to note, if you haven't already clipped the bases off of the Mage knight ones, they will melt. Utterly. Then be a REAL pain to get off the fig. so clip them off first, then strip. Also make sure to dip and rinse in water when done, or residual stripper will continue to eat at and maybe pock up the mini. And use thick gloves and good ventillation ALWAYS! :) hope this helps... | |
Good judgement comes from wisdom. Wisdom comes from bad judgement.
Member Team ROH
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Dahak
Warrior
202 Posts
| | 02/06/2006 11:12 AM |
| quote:
Originally posted by glumag
e) Dettol, the pharmaceutical cleaner. Works much like Pine Sol, but I have no information on its potential to melt plastic. Though it didn't melt the base on the test figure, bases probably aren't polystyrene. It did remove glue, though.
I'm trying this now. Intersetingly it appears to be among other things a mix of Pine oil and Isopropyl acholol.
Tomorrow I shall see how the disco Man at arms fares. | |
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Dahak
Warrior
202 Posts
| | 02/08/2006 1:38 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Dahak
quote:
Originally posted by glumag
e) Dettol, the pharmaceutical cleaner. Works much like Pine Sol, but I have no information on its potential to melt plastic. Though it didn't melt the base on the test figure, bases probably aren't polystyrene. It did remove glue, though.
I'm trying this now. Intersetingly it appears to be among other things a mix of Pine oil and Isopropyl acholol.
Tomorrow I shall see how the disco Man at arms fares.
Dettol works on acrylics but seem sto have no effect on the M@A
What to try next? | |
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dj-chuckles
Underboss
2455 Posts
The State that invented Spam!
| | 02/09/2006 1:16 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Gristlemane
Adds some break fluid to his makeup kit . . .
Isn't break fluid used to make Crystal Meth? I seen it done on King of the Hill, he thought he was making candy | |
Posted By WakeXX on 09/25/2006 4:49 AM OMG DJ!This has to be the spammiest spam thread ever! 
Member of Team Game-Rocket.netScry into Blood War | My Trade Thread | My Reference Thread| Vindicated Champion of the Dragon Rider & Dracolich | New Champion of Cadderly | | |
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glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 02/15/2006 7:41 PM |
| | anyone ran any successful experiments? | |
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Fun Guy from Yuggoth
Cthulhufnord
Warlord
11001 Posts
Umass Amherst Baby!
| | 02/20/2006 7:01 PM |
| | Well the Pine Sol even at full strength only loosened up the paint on a Heroclix figure after a few days. I'd heading to my father's tonight to try the break fluid. | |
Pathetic Earthlings. Hurling your bodies out into the void - without the slightest inkling of who or what is out here. If you had known anything about the true nature of the universe - anything at all - you would have hidden from it in terror. | |
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Most Edumacated
zenthrus
Warlord
5103 Posts
SLC, UT
| | 02/20/2006 8:08 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Runelord151
My advice is don't strip the mini. Just clean it and prime it.
I always cringe when people start talking about break fluid...[xx(]
As usual Runelord knows what he's talking about [:D]
Unless your DDM minis are in dire straights just clean and prime. As long as the mini is clean it will take acrylic paint without issue (in my experience using Delta Dreamcoat paints). | |
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