Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
    
 | | 03/14/2006 12:08 PM |
| Alright, I think this is in the right topic. I am sorry if this question has been asked a lot before but, what kind of paint does everyone use to repaint their d&d miniatures?
Thanks a bunch! [:)] | |
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Vash
Underboss
1995 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 12:12 PM |
| Indeed it wa sasked here and there before, but it's all good. The topic is covered a bit in here.
http://www.maxminis.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13905
Hope that helps [:D] | |
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 12:13 PM |
| | Sorry for the repeat. Thanks a bunch Vash! | |
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zenthrus
Warlord
5082 Posts
SLC, UT
| | 03/14/2006 3:59 PM |
| I'll echo Runelord's comments in the above referenced thread. Delta Dreamcoat paints are cheap and generally excellent to work with. The metallics are a little harder to work with (which is why I paint primarily NMM).
Other good paints are Vallejo and Reaper Master's series paints (with the Master's series paints topping the paint list in terms of quality).
The cheap paints can work as well as the expensive paints but you sacrifice time since you don't always get even coverage; you might have to paint several thin coats (this happens primarily with the lightest shades of Delta paints).
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 4:50 PM |
| | Okay, I'll have to try some of these out sometime! Thanks a bunch! [:D] | |
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*censored*
glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 5:26 PM |
| I use only delta and folkart, so far no complaints.
I thin them out with a combo mix of 50/50 distilled water/flow assistant; I apply that to my paint and I meassure in drops to 2 drops of paint to 1 of the mixture and it it is nice and thin. | |
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 6:18 PM |
| | There are a lot of steps to painting that I never realized there were! It will take a lot of work to get used to wash, dry-brushing, mixing colours. It really is hard to take it all in! [:p] | |
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True_Blue
Underboss
2386 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 7:13 PM |
| | yea, I paint just average and for the most part I'm pretty happy with what I get. But everytime I think about painting in more detail, better, etc..I look at the tips and guidelines and it just seems like so much more work. There's so much to know, its overwhelming..for me at least. I just want nicely painted minis heh | |
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Runelord151
Underboss
1203 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 7:27 PM |
| I was going to reply, but zenthrus beat me to it!
Don't be afraid to try some inexpensive paints to start and see if you have fun doing it. You can always upgrade later, if the hobby suits you. | | | |
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Jenbar
Skirmisher
27 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 7:41 PM |
| | I just use the folk art ones from a craft store. Figured I would fork out for a bunch at 79c each and see how they went than get a vellejo or GW boxed set for $130-150. They work pretty good, some are a little week and need a few layers, but sometimes that can be a good thing. Another nice thing about the Folk art, they are double the size of the GW or Vallejo paints. | |
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 7:51 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Runelord151
I was going to reply, but zenthrus beat me to it!
Don't be afraid to try some inexpensive paints to start and see if you have fun doing it. You can always upgrade later, if the hobby suits you.
Yeah, I'll definitely have to start off with just some basics, then eventually work my way up. Most of the repaints I've seen in this section are fantastic! [:D] | |
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zenthrus
Warlord
5082 Posts
SLC, UT
| | 03/14/2006 8:47 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by glumag
I use only delta and folkart, so far no complaints.
I thin them out with a combo mix of 50/50 distilled water/flow assistant; I apply that to my paint and I meassure in drops to 2 drops of paint to 1 of the mixture and it it is nice and thin.
That's the exact ratio I use for normal painting. 2 drops of paint per drop of water. It yields a very nice consistency with the Delta paints. I've found when using the Delta metallics I generally get the best results by painting straight from the bottle (I know, taboo, taboo). Delta tends to add a little extra thinning agent to their metallics and they end up too thinned after I add more water.
Good luck painting Crystal King. I always like to see the work of others. A number of my repaints have been inspired by folks here and on the WotC boards (Aspect of Frost for one). | |
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bigbadjon
Sergeant
546 Posts
| | 03/14/2006 11:46 PM |
| | While someone has a help topic up, I might as well ask a question. When you guys finish painting, do you wrap it up with a sealer? If so what do you use? I was painting some Starship Troopers minis today and my paint just doesn't seem to bond to the metal. I am using Testors acrylics, which I have not had problems with until today. | |
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zenthrus
Warlord
5082 Posts
SLC, UT
| | 03/14/2006 11:54 PM |
| | Testor's Dullcote is the sealer of choice. | |
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Temperance
Sergeant
522 Posts
| | 03/15/2006 12:53 AM |
| I'm a bit of a paint snob in avoiding the craft paints (They don't mix with my style; the coverage wasn't good enough -- but I may need to investigate some translucent paints and I'll probably need to go craft for that... but that's another show. oops. channeling alton brown there for a second.)
Having said that, I gotta chip in and say that the Krylon Matte Finish is pretty good and on par with Testor's dullcote, and it's quite a bit cheaper. There is a slight Satin-y quality, but it's not too bad and it photographs well.
I always seal my figures, especially after applying static grass. It removes the gloss of the static grass and makes it look more realistic. | |
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glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 03/15/2006 8:28 AM |
| quote:
Originally posted by zenthrus
Testor's Dullcote is the sealer of choice.
There is no better one. Always seal, saves your work and makes it look nicer; something I learned from here and I went back and sealed all the ones I didn't and the ones I did using other products I applied a couple of coats of Testor. Yes, it is that good. | |
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 4:59 PM |
| Sorry for being a real newb, but what is flow assistant? (By the way, I really want to thank everyone for their ideas and opinions!)
Thanks again. | |
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*censored*
glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 5:10 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Crystal King
Sorry for being a real newb, but what is flow assistant? (By the way, I really want to thank everyone for their ideas and opinions!)
Thanks again.
No problem [:D]
Plaid FolkArt Floating Medium is a special gel formula that eases "floating" of highlights and shades. It never runs as water can. Great for watercolor painting. Dries quickly without extenders.
see here for more mediums [)] The only three I recommend are the Extender, Blending and the Floating Medium.
http://www.hofcraft.com/plaidfolkartpaintingmediums.htm | |
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 5:15 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by glumag
quote:
Originally posted by Crystal King
Sorry for being a real newb, but what is flow assistant? (By the way, I really want to thank everyone for their ideas and opinions!)
Thanks again.
No problem [:D]
Plaid FolkArt Floating Medium is a special gel formula that eases "floating" of highlights and shades. It never runs as water can. Great for watercolor painting. Dries quickly without extenders.
see here for more mediums [)] The only three I recommend are the Extender, Blending and the Floating Medium.
http://www.hofcraft.com/plaidfolkartpaintingmediums.htm
Thanks a lot! [:D] | |
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*censored*
glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 5:45 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Crystal King
quote:
Originally posted by glumag
quote:
Originally posted by Crystal King
Sorry for being a real newb, but what is flow assistant? (By the way, I really want to thank everyone for their ideas and opinions!)
Thanks again.
No problem [:D]
Plaid FolkArt Floating Medium is a special gel formula that eases "floating" of highlights and shades. It never runs as water can. Great for watercolor painting. Dries quickly without extenders.
see here for more mediums [)] The only three I recommend are the Extender, Blending and the Floating Medium.
http://www.hofcraft.com/plaidfolkartpaintingmediums.htm
Thanks a lot! [:D]
Anytime [:D] You might get these ones cheaper at your local craft store. I know I do. I used the link as example so you can see them. | |
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*censored*
glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 6:41 PM |
| I did an inventory of my paints and here they are, by item number:
<a href="http://www.deltacrafts.com/Paint/Ceramcoat/techniques/CmcColorChart.asp">DELTA</a><br>2002 ANTIQUE GOLD<br>2023 BROWN IRON OXIDE<br>2036 IVORY<br>2042 PUMPKIN<br>2046 ADOBE RED<br>2054 GOLDEN BROWN<br>2064 SUNBRIGHT YELLOW<br>2071 TERRA COTTA<br>2074 OCEAN REEF BLUE<br>2085 AC FLESH<br>2096 DARK FOREST GREEN<br>2402 SANDSTONE<br>2424 BAMBI BROWN<br>2436 CHARCOAL<br>2438 ADRIATIC BLUE<br>2459 CROCUS YELLOW<br>2475 JADE GREEN<br>2505 WHITE<br>2510 ROYAL FUCHSIA<br>2513 BLUEBERRY<br>2519 DARK GOLDENROD<br>2522 PURPLE DUSK<br>2533 TIMBERLAND GREEN<br>2538 CHOCOLATE CHERRY<br>2539 EGGSHELL WHITE<br>2540 METALLIC PEWTER<br>2543 RAIN GREY<br>2548 PURPLE SMOKE<br>2573 DARK VICTORIAN TEAL<br>2600 METALLIC GOLD<br>2601 PEARL FINISH<br>2602 METALLIC KIM GOLD<br>2603 METALLIC SILVER<br>2604 METALLIC 14K GOLD<br>2605 METTALIC RED COPPER<br>2606 METALLIC BRONZE<br>2607 METALLIC COPPER<br>2624 METALLIC PALE GOLD<br><br><a href="http://www.plaidonline.com/articleDetail.asp?entry=article&articleID=115">FolkArt</a><br>402 LIGHT BLUE<br>407 KELLY GREEN<br>415 MAROON<br>416 DARK BROWN<br>418 BUCKSKIN BROWN<br>420 LINEN<br>424 LIGHT GRAY<br>441 STERLING BLUE<br>447 LEAF GREEN<br>449 OLIVE GREEN<br>452 RAW SIENNA<br>453 BUTLER MAGENTA<br>455 MEDIUM YELLO<br>456 TRUE BURGUNDY<br>462 BURNT UMBER<br>467 ITALIAN SAGE<br>468 GRAY PLUM<br>479 PURE BLACK<br>481 AQUA<br>503 YELLOW CITRON<br>513 CAYMAN BLUE<br>636 RED VIOLET<br>651 METALLIC BLUE TOPAZ<br>653 METALLIC EMERALD GREEN<br>656 METALLIC BLUE SAPHIRE<br>661 METALLIC SEQUIN BLACK<br>664 METALLIC COPPER<br>686 BURNT CARMINE<br>701 ICY WHITE<br>708 DOVE GRAY<br>720 COBALT BLUE<br>721 DENIM BLUE<br>901 WICKER WHITE<br>917 YELLOW OCHRE<br>936 BARN WOOD<br>938 LICORICE<br>939 BUTTER PECAN<br>941 ACORN BROWN<br>944 NUTMEG<br>949 SKINTONE<br>954 FRESH FOLIAGE<br>958 CHRISTMAS RED<br>961 TURQUOISE | |
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 8:33 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by glumag
I did an inventory of my paints and here they are, by item number:
<a href="http://www.deltacrafts.com/Paint/Ceramcoat/techniques/CmcColorChart.asp">DELTA</a><br>2002 ANTIQUE GOLD<br>2023 BROWN IRON OXIDE<br>2036 IVORY<br>2042 PUMPKIN<br>2046 ADOBE RED<br>2054 GOLDEN BROWN<br>2064 SUNBRIGHT YELLOW<br>2071 TERRA COTTA<br>2074 OCEAN REEF BLUE<br>2085 AC FLESH<br>2096 DARK FOREST GREEN<br>2402 SANDSTONE<br>2424 BAMBI BROWN<br>2436 CHARCOAL<br>2438 ADRIATIC BLUE<br>2459 CROCUS YELLOW<br>2475 JADE GREEN<br>2505 WHITE<br>2510 ROYAL FUCHSIA<br>2513 BLUEBERRY<br>2519 DARK GOLDENROD<br>2522 PURPLE DUSK<br>2533 TIMBERLAND GREEN<br>2538 CHOCOLATE CHERRY<br>2539 EGGSHELL WHITE<br>2540 METALLIC PEWTER<br>2543 RAIN GREY<br>2548 PURPLE SMOKE<br>2573 DARK VICTORIAN TEAL<br>2600 METALLIC GOLD<br>2601 PEARL FINISH<br>2602 METALLIC KIM GOLD<br>2603 METALLIC SILVER<br>2604 METALLIC 14K GOLD<br>2605 METTALIC RED COPPER<br>2606 METALLIC BRONZE<br>2607 METALLIC COPPER<br>2624 METALLIC PALE GOLD<br><br><a href="http://www.plaidonline.com/articleDetail.asp?entry=article&articleID=115">FolkArt</a><br>402 LIGHT BLUE<br>407 KELLY GREEN<br>415 MAROON<br>416 DARK BROWN<br>418 BUCKSKIN BROWN<br>420 LINEN<br>424 LIGHT GRAY<br>441 STERLING BLUE<br>447 LEAF GREEN<br>449 OLIVE GREEN<br>452 RAW SIENNA<br>453 BUTLER MAGENTA<br>455 MEDIUM YELLO<br>456 TRUE BURGUNDY<br>462 BURNT UMBER<br>467 ITALIAN SAGE<br>468 GRAY PLUM<br>479 PURE BLACK<br>481 AQUA<br>503 YELLOW CITRON<br>513 CAYMAN BLUE<br>636 RED VIOLET<br>651 METALLIC BLUE TOPAZ<br>653 METALLIC EMERALD GREEN<br>656 METALLIC BLUE SAPHIRE<br>661 METALLIC SEQUIN BLACK<br>664 METALLIC COPPER<br>686 BURNT CARMINE<br>701 ICY WHITE<br>708 DOVE GRAY<br>720 COBALT BLUE<br>721 DENIM BLUE<br>901 WICKER WHITE<br>917 YELLOW OCHRE<br>936 BARN WOOD<br>938 LICORICE<br>939 BUTTER PECAN<br>941 ACORN BROWN<br>944 NUTMEG<br>949 SKINTONE<br>954 FRESH FOLIAGE<br>958 CHRISTMAS RED<br>961 TURQUOISE
I might have to pick up a few of these to help give a little more variety when picking colours. Thanks!!!!! [:)] | |
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kniterangr
Warrior
287 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 8:52 PM |
| | When I sealed minis I used a high gloss clear coat from the line of paints used and then the Testor Dullcoat. The high gloss clear is suppose to bind better with the paints and then the Dullcoat takes away the gloss. It is best to test the high gloss paint with the Dullcoat first because sometimes there can be a chemical reaction (depends on the brand of gloss paint) and you end up with a yellow tint to the finish. I have never seen the yellow tint but just a warning that I heard happen to others. | |
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 8:53 PM |
| | Okay, I think this is my final question about the painting. What is the best way to wash something. I've been trying to do it, but I can't seem to get it right. Thanks, and sorry for all the questions. [:)] | |
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glumag
Warlord
5968 Posts
| | 03/17/2006 8:54 PM |
| | hmmm...the dull coat bonds just fine. I use the gloss to enhance things that should be 'wet' (eyes, lips, snow, etc) or gems, rings or where there should be a light reflection. | |
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zenthrus
Warlord
5082 Posts
SLC, UT
| | 03/17/2006 10:48 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by Crystal King
Okay, I think this is my final question about the painting. What is the best way to wash something. I've been trying to do it, but I can't seem to get it right. Thanks, and sorry for all the questions. [:)]
For washes I mix closer to 4:1 or 5:1 water (or water/flow control) to paint. Any more usually turns into a glaze. Washes seem to work best when they're about the same consistency as skim milk.
If you ever decide to try your hand at non-metallic metals start here:
http://elfwood.lysator.liu.se/farp/metal2/Reflective0.htm
AND
http://www.blackmoor.ca/articlesnmm.htm
Good luck painting [:)] | |
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zenthrus
Warlord
5082 Posts
SLC, UT
| | 03/17/2006 10:51 PM |
| quote:
Originally posted by glumag
hmmm...the dull coat bonds just fine. I use the gloss to enhance things that should be 'wet' (eyes, lips, snow, etc) or gems, rings or where there should be a light reflection.
That's been my experience as well. Use the dull coat first then apply small amounts of gloss to wet areas. Testors bonds perfectly to Delta paints. | |
Knight Warlord a.k.a. Commander (#32) in only 6 months. Where's my pie?
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Crystal King
Sneak
141 Posts
| | 03/18/2006 7:48 AM |
| | Okay, I'll have to give washes a try again today. Thanks a lot! | |
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