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Subject: Removing Paint

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stephengroy
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Gilbert, AZ

10/29/2007 10:25 AM Alert 
Shadow Mastiff seems a little darker and glossier than I'd like.
Obviously, time in a chlorinated pool will do nothing.
What's the best way to get him to lighten up?


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zenthrus
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SLC, UT

10/30/2007 1:54 PMAlert 
Base coat of paint + New paintjob.

DDM paint is notoriously impossible to strip without damaging the plastic.

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Duncan and Dragons
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10/30/2007 3:01 PMAlert 
Is there a way to 'rough up' the paint so the primer/paint adheres better? Sometimes my paint comes off before I dull coat it. OK, i usually am too lazy to prime, but why prime a painted figure? Won't the primer just rub off also?


zenthrus
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SLC, UT

10/31/2007 1:52 PMAlert 
If you properly clean miniatures before painting (with a toothbrush and dishsoap) paint should adhere without a problem. That includes primer.

The reason for priming an already painted figure is that generally speaking, if I'm going to bother painting a prepainted mini, I'm giving it a complete overhaul. You get a more consistent surface to work with and more consistent colors on solid primer.

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Wraithborne
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West Virginia

11/01/2007 9:31 AMAlert 
Along the same line, I have some minis that weren't primed and were VERY poorly repainted. Is there something that would remove the paint without damaging the underlying WotC paintjob?

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Halidan
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Lansing, MI

11/01/2007 11:02 AMAlert 
Posted By Wraithborne on 11/01/2007 9:31 AM
Along the same line, I have some minis that weren't primed and were VERY poorly repainted. Is there something that would remove the paint without damaging the underlying WotC paintjob?

It depends a lot on what they were repainted with. Enamel or Acrylic is the most basic question that needs to be answered. More information is always better. Once you give us a starting point, then better advise probably will follow.

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Cthulhufnord
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Umass Amherst Baby!

11/02/2007 4:04 AMAlert 
For metal minis painted with Acrylics I use simple green.

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Wraithborne
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West Virginia

11/02/2007 5:13 AMAlert 
Acrylic, either Games Workshop stuff, or Reaper Master.
I can get simple Green free at work, so hopefully that'll work.

4dv3ntur3
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Ravage the land as never before,
Total destruction from mountain to shore!!!!

yack
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Ottawa, Canada

11/02/2007 5:15 AMAlert 
I use GW paints myself and have never ran into a issue of the old paint still being on as a problem.

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Halidan
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Lansing, MI

11/02/2007 5:43 PMAlert 
Simple Green should work just fine. The WotC paintjob is very tough to remove, and was resistant to SG when I tried using that to strip paint from several DDM's. I don't think you should have any problem. You might want to make sure you have a broken-in toothbrush to help gently scrub the unwanted paint out of any creases or folds in the mini. Between the SG and the brush, you should be able to get the unwanted paint off quite easily. Good luck.

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Wraithborne
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West Virginia

11/04/2007 7:49 AMAlert 
Thanks!!!

4dv3ntur3
It's totally bonzer!!!!!

Ravage the land as never before,
Total destruction from mountain to shore!!!!

stephengroy
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Gilbert, AZ

11/04/2007 1:16 PMAlert 
Okay, lemme ask a different way:

What's the best way to get a heavy blackwash off a mostly-clear mini?

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Halidan
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Lansing, MI

11/05/2007 7:06 AMAlert 
Posted By stephengroy on 11/04/2007 1:16 PM
Okay, lemme ask a different way:

What's the best way to get a heavy blackwash off a mostly-clear mini?

I'm afraid that there really isn't a good way to remove that wash. I think that's what Zenthrus was trying to say, and my experience says the same. I don't know what sort of industrial solvent-based paint that WotC's Chinese painters are using, but it's nearly impossible to remove or lighten.

I can't speak for Zenthrus, but I've tried Simple Green, Pine Sol, Goo Gone and Krud Kutter, all with no luck at all. A  couple of guys over at the WotC Boards say they have had limited sucess with acetone, but I'd warn you against it. That stuff disolves plastic very quickly and will probably either scar or cloud the finish of the clear miniatures to boot.

If you do risk going the acetone route, make sure you work in a very well-ventilated area -- the vapors can make you light-headed. Use a good strong fan. Also, don't soak the figure for longer than 30 seconds to 1 minute at a time, and don't do more than 2-3 dips in any 24 hour period. Use a brush to scrape in the cracks and channels of the sculpt.

 


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stephengroy
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Gilbert, AZ

11/05/2007 2:52 PMAlert 
Sheesh!  Sounds like Mission Impossible stuff

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zenthrus
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SLC, UT

11/05/2007 9:07 PMAlert 
Acetone tends to cloud clear minis, regardless of how carefully you use it. As Halidan said, it's nasty, toxic stuff to boot so you have to be very careful using it. It can remove paint from minis, but it almost never removes all of the paint even using a toothbrush and toothpick to scrap the crevices. Further, some minis seem to react differently to chemicals than others (slightly different plastic forumlas over the years?) and you run the occasional risk of bits of the mini dissolving.

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Duncan and Dragons
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12/02/2007 6:21 AMAlert 
CLR worked to remove the black 'ink' wash from a Shadow Mastif.  I don't know if the real name is CLR or Calcium, Lime, Rust.  I don't know where my wife got it, but it says 'As Seen On TV'.

The figure is now virtually clear except for the crevices.  I had some success getting the black out of the crevices by scrapping with a knife.  The clear plastic seems to have a slight purple hue.  I think that is in the plastic, not from the chemical.

I tried CLR with a regular figure and the cleaner did not seem to remove any paint.


Nyarlathotep333
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12/03/2007 10:37 AMAlert 
Googling "Calcium Lime Rust" seemed to produce results that make it look like this product is somewhat easy to find... now I just need to hope that it is available in my local area stores. There are a few clear plastic minis I wouldn't mind taking the paint off of so I think I'll try and hunt this stuff down. Hopefully it will work for some of the minis I plan on using with it.

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Wraithborne
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West Virginia

12/03/2007 6:14 PMAlert 
I know you can get CLR at Wal-Mart.

4dv3ntur3
It's totally bonzer!!!!!

Ravage the land as never before,
Total destruction from mountain to shore!!!!

zenthrus
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SLC, UT

12/03/2007 9:49 PMAlert 
CLR is pretty easy to find. The local grocery store (Harmon's) carries it.

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Nyarlathotep333
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12/05/2007 10:56 AMAlert 
There may be different products out there... I found some Lime, Calcium and Rust remover (green spray bottle - not sure about the brand name) in our cleaning cabinet but it didn't seem to make a difference. I tried both soaking the minis (I tried Shadow Mastiff and Caller in Darkness) for a while as well as scrubbing them with an old toothbrush. Neither seemed to take off any of the wash/paint. I'll have to look around the store this weekend to see if there are different brands perhaps.

Against the Giants Called Shot: Giant Skeleton
Demonweb Called Shot: Myconid
Champion of the Zombie Black Dragon

- N333


The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.
- Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless


To crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentation of the women!
- Conan the Barbarian, on what is best in life


My Website - Be sure to check out my painted minis gallery!


stephengroy
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Gilbert, AZ

12/05/2007 12:36 PMAlert 
This is Arizona, without CLR, we'd not have running water at all!
Did it also work on the base?  A clear purplish is what I pictured mantally anyway -- SWEET!

I Hate you Milkman Dan

zenthrus
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SLC, UT

12/05/2007 2:04 PMAlert 
CLR is a specific brand. There are a number of knockoffs that aren't nearly as effective.

Knight Warlord a.k.a. Commander (#32) in only 6 months. Where's my pie?
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Duncan and Dragons
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12/10/2007 9:44 PMAlert 

The CLR did not work on the 'base'.  The bottom and top of the paws stayed black.  Is the base painted? I thought they were black plastic.

The purplish hue is really faint.  You will have to add color if you want a purple look.

I actually used Goo Gone first. I got no effect. So then I started on it with CLR and a toothbrush.  The first two minutes I was about to give up.  Then I said maybe it is working. Then it was 'wow it's gone'. I think the problem is as you remove the ink, the black from the other side of the miniature makes it still look black.  I did some soaking and some scrubbing.  I think it was mostly the scrubbing that worked.  I did not leave it over night or anything.

Somebody back me up here!  I don't want to have to post pictures.



Nyarlathotep333
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12/11/2007 10:17 AMAlert 
I just bought some CLR last night. I've got a Shadow Mastiff and a Caller in Darkness soaking in them all last night and while I'm at work today (I checked them this morning, but there didn't seem to be too much change). I'll check them tonight and see...I may have to hunt down an old toothbrush and do some scrubbing as well.

Against the Giants Called Shot: Giant Skeleton
Demonweb Called Shot: Myconid
Champion of the Zombie Black Dragon

- N333


The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.
- Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless


To crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentation of the women!
- Conan the Barbarian, on what is best in life


My Website - Be sure to check out my painted minis gallery!


stephengroy
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Gilbert, AZ

04/16/2008 7:32 PMAlert 
UPDATE: The stuff from that other thread Klean Strip allegedly will not harm plastic, yet dissolves cynoacrylate.
Any chemists here wanna comment?

I Hate you Milkman Dan

Halidan
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Lansing, MI

04/23/2008 10:45 AMAlert 
A quick Google of the term Klean Strip shows me that the product contains STODDARD SOLVENT - TYPE I. This is a fairly effective general purpose solvent (used in things as varied as degreasers, dry cleaning solvents, and paint strippers). While I can't tell you for certain that ths is why your super glue dissolves, my best guess is that this is the ingredient that's causing your problem.

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stephengroy
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Gilbert, AZ

04/23/2008 3:02 PMAlert 
Not a problem -- makes rebasing and pinning easier!

I Hate you Milkman Dan
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